JNU’s Iconic Spaces: How Ganga Dhaba, DTC Bus 615 Became The Heart Of Campus Culture

From the unifying force of Ganga Dhaba to the iconic bus route 615, his memoir encapsulates the deep emotional connections people hold with places that shaped them

For alumni, faculty, and friends of Jawaharlal Nehru University (JNU), the name Gopalaswami Parthasarathy commands deep respect and gratitude for his role in building this venerable institution of learning. However, a question arises: do they also know who designed the early buildings of the JNU campus? If the name eludes them, it was CK Kukreja, an accomplished architect. Arguably, Parthasarathy and Kukreja were the two principal architects of JNU. Perhaps, even they could not have foreseen the enduring impact the University would have on the hearts and souls of its alumni throughout their lives.

Within the JNU community, two things stand out as unifying elements: the iconic Ganga Dhaba and the ubiquitous DTC Bus route number 615. In his highly engaging book, ‘Ashiyana MacRobertGanj’, veteran journalist and author Raman Hitkari writes about both with heartfelt affection. “Ganga Dhaba is an iconic place within the JNU campus, situated conveniently close to Ganga, Jhelum, and Sutlej hostels. Run by Tejbir, a Jat, it remains open well past midnight. Nimbu Pani and Bun Omelette were the signature offerings of Ganga Dhaba. The combination of Nimbu Pani and Bun Omelette might seem a little unconventional, yet it had a considerable following within JNU. For newcomers to JNU, Ganga Dhaba provided an initial taste of the expansive campus nestled in the Aravali hills. For seniors, it was the perfect place to engage in endless debates and discussions on any topic imaginable.”

In 1982, the Delhi Transport Corporation (DTC) introduced bus route number 615, connecting the New Delhi Railway Station to Purvanchal Hostel, JNU. This was during the time when Delhi was preparing to host the Asian Games. The city was being beautified and readied for the significant sporting event. To facilitate transportation to various stadiums, several new bus routes were introduced, including the aforementioned 615, which ran between the New Delhi Railway Station (Ajmeri Gate side) and Purvanchal Hostel. Raman Hitkari vividly recounts his first encounter with this vital connection in ‘Ashiyana MacRobertGanj’: “It was the month of May, and the sun was scorching. This was in 1984. I was standing at the Safdarjung Bus stand, carrying a small bag and a water bottle, anxiously awaiting Bus Number 615 to reach JNU and take my entrance test. My paper was scheduled to begin at 2:30 pm, and it was already around 1:15 pm. I was both nervous and exhausted. Just when I had almost given up hope of making it to the test, Bus number 615 arrived, much to my relief. I boarded it.” This marked the beginning of Raman Hitkari's association with 615, which remained an integral part of his life throughout his time at JNU.

Indeed, several generations of students at Jawaharlal Nehru University (JNU) have relied on this route. They hold a deeply rooted connection to it. Teachers, students, and anyone associated with JNU in any capacity cannot forget route number 615 and the myriad memories associated with it. Some years ago, its point of origin shifted from the New Delhi Railway Station to the Minto Road Terminal. It continues to traverse through Super Bazaar, Eastern Court, National Museum, Safdarjung Road, Lakshmi Bai Nagar, Sarojini Nagar, R.K. Puram, Munirka Village, Vasant Vihar, and ultimately reaches Godavari Hostel and Purvanchal Hostel. The same bus restarts its route after approximately 20 minutes. During its roughly 50-minute journey, one could be certain that JNU students were on board. Invariably, discussions and debates would erupt amongst them, encompassing topics ranging from America's foreign policy to the rising influence of communal forces in India, often captivating the attention of other passengers.

Raman Hitkari’s debut book is replete with recollections of his formative years spent in various cities of Uttar Pradesh, including Kanpur, Lucknow, and Prayagraj (though he prefers the older name, Allahabad).

Reading his descriptions, I felt a connection to Allahabad's Civil Lines, Clive Road, Hastings Road, the Indian Coffee House, and the upscale El Chiko Restaurant, having visited them recently. I believe my first introduction to Allahabad came through Dharamvir Bharati's masterpiece novel, Gunahon ka Devta. The novel powerfully portrays the city of Allahabad, using it as a backdrop to shape the lives and experiences of its characters. The English translation, skillfully rendered by my former Hindustan Times colleague Poonam Saxena, further enhanced my understanding. Through the characters of Chander and Sudha, I gleaned a deeper insight into the society of Allahabad. I was completely immersed in it for days.

However, once I started reading ‘Ashiyana MacRobertGanj’, I found myself unable to put it down. Through his engaging writing style, Raman Hitkari takes his readers on a journey through Kanpur, Allahabad, Delhi, Lucknow, and Dehradun. It’s a compelling portrayal of a refined Kayastha family in Uttar Pradesh, highlighting their cuisine, lifestyle, values, and ethics. At times, it appears that the destiny of those living in smaller cities is to leave the places they cherish in pursuit of job opportunities or career advancement.

Raman Hitkari also had to leave his family home at 10/471 MacRobertGanj, Kanpur, which his father had been allotted. Following Kanpur, his family relocated to Prayagraj. Eventually, that city, too, had to be left behind.

“During the Kumbh in 2000, I stayed in Allahabad for approximately 15 days, although I spent most of that time in the Kumbh area itself. Later, after my father passed away, I didn't visit Allahabad for almost 17-18 years. Five years ago, I went to the Kumbh and decided to visit Civil Lines. Much had changed. The Rama & Company outlet was closed. El Chiko was also gone. I didn't recognize a single person, a single familiar face." (See pages 122-123). While El Chiko, happily, is still there.

As I absorbed the captivating narrative of ‘Aashiyana MacRobertGanj’, Raman Hitkari recalls his Christ Church College friend, Rehan Fazal, and highlights the close bonds between their families. A dedicated chapter of the book is devoted to Rehan Fazal, one of South Asia's leading journalists, who also had to leave his beloved Allahabad for professional reasons. This story is not unique to Raman Hitkari or Rehan Fazal. Before them and after them, countless young individuals aspiring to reach for their dreams have embarked on journeys to larger cities or metropolises. Finally, I must comment on Raman Hitkari's language. His writing is infused with Urdu words, which underscore the intimate and revered relationship between Hindi and Urdu.

(The author is Delhi-based senior journalist and writer. He is author of Gandhi's Delhi which has brought to the forth many hidden facts about Mahatma Gandhi)